Beyond the Ancient Town: A Slow Day Through Hoi An’s Local Villages
An unhurried journey through An Bang, Tra Que, Cam Kim and Thanh Ha
Hoi An is one of those places that draws you back. Most visitors know it for the lanterns, ochre-coloured buildings and busy riverside streets of the Ancient Town. But on a recent day out with a friend, I wanted to experience a different side of Hoi An one that unfolded beyond the familiar centre.
Rather than trying to fit in every attraction, we planned a relaxed loop from Da Nang through the coast, gardens, villages and countryside surrounding Hoi An. We had a driver for the day, no complicated timetable and one simple intention to slow down enough to notice where we were.
It turned out to be exactly the kind of journey I love a day built around local places, ordinary moments and the freedom to stay a little longer when something caught our attention.
A gentle start at An Bang
We left Da Nang at about 8.00 am and made An Bang Beach our first stop. The beach is often treated as a destination in itself, but for us it was a practical and pleasant beginning to the day. My friend had a fitting at a local tailor, giving us a reason to pause near the coast before moving inland. I will give her a shout out as I have used this tailor many times and never been let down. Her shop is called Zon Tailor and has recently relocated back to An Bang area after being in Hoi An for a few years.
There was no need to rush. With our own driver, the day could follow our energy rather than a tour group’s schedule.
Cooking among the herbs at Tra Que
From An Bang, we continued to Tra Que Vegetable Village for our 10.00 am cooking class at Water Wheel.
Arriving at Tra Que immediately shifted the pace of the day. Here, food begins long before it reaches the kitchen in garden beds filled with herbs and vegetables, surrounded by a landscape that feels remarkably peaceful despite being so close to Hoi An. We were welcomed with a refreshing drink made from lemon and basil seeds before our host, Minh, guided us through the organic gardens. She explained the traditional farming methods still used in the village and showed us which herbs to pick for the dishes we were going to prepare.
Before the cooking began, we were treated to a traditional foot massage, which was a lovely and unexpected part of the experience. Then it was time to put on our aprons and start cooking. Together, we prepared a generous selection of Vietnamese dishes, including fresh and fried spring rolls, banana flower salad, crispy bánh xèo, clay-pot fish and fragrant lemongrass chicken and shrimp.
A cooking class offers so much more than recipes. It gives you a natural way to talk with local people, handle unfamiliar ingredients and appreciate the work that takes place before a meal reaches the table. For slow travellers, it is ideal because you are participating rather than simply looking. The best part was sitting down afterwards to enjoy the meal we had created, surrounded by the very gardens where many of our ingredients had been grown.
Across the river to Cam Kim
After lunch, we crossed towards Cam Kim Island and the Kim Bong carpentry area. This was deliberately not planned as a quick photo stop. We asked our driver to take us slowly through the countryside so we could see the village, the river landscape and the wood artisans’ workshops along the way.
Cam Kim feels removed from the busiest parts of Hoi An. The roads narrow, the scenery opens and everyday life becomes part of the experience homes, small workshops, fields, boats and people going about their day. Kim Bong has long been associated with woodworking, and visiting the area provides a glimpse of the skill behind many of the carved details seen throughout the region.
Sometimes the pleasure is simply watching the surroundings change through the car window and allowing the journey between places to matter as much as the destinations.
Hands in the clay at Thanh Ha
Our next stop was Thanh Ha Pottery Village and the nearby Terracotta Park. Here, the story of local craft changes from timber to clay. Pottery has been part of village life for generations, and the experience is tactile.
I thought shaping a simple cup on the pottery wheel would be easy. After all, the local artisans made it look almost effortless. We soon discovered how wrong we were. The moment the wheel began turning, the clay seemed to develop a mind of its own. What we created looked nothing like a cup, but it gave us plenty to laugh about.
The staff were patient and encouraging, gently guiding our hands and helping us rescue our rather questionable creations. Even with their help, I do not think either of our pieces would have held much tea, but that hardly mattered. Trying it ourselves made the visit far more memorable and gave us a new appreciation for the skill involved. The artisans had spent years learning how to shape the clay, while we were simply trying to stop ours from collapsing.
An unexpectedly playful finish
From Thanh Ha, our route continued to the Duck Stop. It may seem like an unusual addition to a day filled with cooking and traditional crafts, but that was precisely why I included it. A little unpredictability stops an itinerary from becoming too polished or serious.
I had recently taken another group to the original Duck Stop at Bong Lai Village, near Phong Nha, so I had some idea of what was coming. My friend, however, had no idea and I deliberately did not explain too much. Sometimes it is better to let an experience unfold for itself.
The Duck Stop is simple, noisy and slightly chaotic. The moment food appears, an enormous flock of ducks comes rushing towards you, surrounding your feet and demanding their share. At the original farm, visitors can also experience the famous duck massage, ride a buffalo and finish with freshly made bánh xèo and a cool drink. It does not sound like something that should work as a tourist attraction, but perhaps that is exactly why it does. There is nothing polished or carefully staged about it just a family farm, a lot of very enthusiastic ducks and plenty of laughter. My friend’s reaction said it all. It was the perfect light-hearted ending to our day before returning to An Bang to collect the finished tailoring and then heading home to Da Nang.
Not the Hoi An most visitors see
By the time we collected the finished clothes from Zon Tailor and began the drive home to Da Nang, we were tired, but it was the good kind of tired. We had fitted a surprising amount into the day without ever feeling rushed.
Having our own driver made an enormous difference. We could keep the walks short, rest when we needed to and adjust the afternoon depending on how we felt. This made the day comfortable for my friend, who had not been well, and allowed us to enjoy each stop rather than simply race towards the next one.
It was certainly not the usual Hoi An day. We stayed away from the crowded streets, lantern shops and expensive riverside cafés. Instead, we picked herbs, cooked with local people, explored village roads, attempted to make pottery and ended the afternoon laughing among a flock of very enthusiastic ducks.
That is what “Slow Stays and Local Ways” means to me. It is not about seeing less. It is about leaving enough room for the unexpected and returning home with a story rather than simply another collection of photographs.
Our route: Da Nang → An Bang Beach → Tra Que Vegetable Village → Cam Kim and Kim Bong Carpentry Village → Thanh Ha Pottery Village → Duck Stop → An Bang → Da Nang.
Sheridan-Leigh
MyLifestyle.au – Inspiring slower, smarter and more meaningful travel.
About the Author:
Sheridan-Leigh is the passionate voice behind the MyLifestyle Blog, where life is celebrated with vibrant stories and insightful travel tips. With a deep love for slow travel, she believes in truly experiencing each destination, creating connections beyond the surface. Her blog is a blend of personal stories, expert advice, and a philosophy that life is for living to the fullest and is rich with opportunities for growth and adventure. Join Sheridan-Leigh as she shares her journey, inspiring others to embrace life, travel deeply, and live fully.
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